BACKPACKING Guide: The Seven Lakes Basin and High Divide Trail

Updated: Feb 4, 2022

This is perhaps the premiere hike on the Olympic Peninsula and one of the best in the state of Washington. It is also popular and you should plan well ahead of time. During this journey you will pass through mountain valleys, camp at secluded lakes, walk through wildflower meadows and run into a true abundance of wildlife.

TRAIL DETAILS

You can choose to hike either clockwise or counterclockwise with the break off at Sol Duc falls. We recommend the counter clockwise route which is steeper and rockier but the views are better and you will get into the sub-alpine area quicker. Hiking clockwise will have you going through a long forest section, although with a manageable grade.

The hike from Sol Duc Falls to Deer Lake is roughly 3 miles and mostly through a classic lush and dense Olympic forest. You will still pass the occasional day hiker going to Deer Lake but at this point you start losing the large crowds back at the waterfall. The trail is rocky and steep at times but shaded the entire route which is a blessing on hot summer days. Eventually you will emerge at Deer Lake. A serene lake which is mostly wooded with exception of the far end. We did not actually see any deer but have no doubt they are plentiful. This is a great place to stop and have a lunch or if you are planning a three night trip a great first campsite.

From Deer Lake you will climb another 3.2 miles through sub-alpine forest to the Seven Lakes/High Divide junction. This section is the first to give you views and you pass a number of small lakes on the way. Despite leaving on a summer Saturday, we saw a grand total of 4 people on this section. Before the Lunch lake turnoff you will come to a section that underwent geologic activity which lasts for about a quarter mile. This will likely become easier to pass over time as the trail becomes more established.

At 7.2 miles you will come to a junction with a sign for Seven Lakes basin to the left and the high divide to the right. If you are planning to go to Lunch lake take the trail to the left as it is 0.8 miles to the lake. We ran into several folks who had missed this turnoff. Even if you are not planning to camp at Lunch Lake we would recommend a trip there as it is gorgeous and well worth the stop. If you are backpacking these are the best (and hardest to get) on the trail.

As you descend the trail to Lunch Lake you will see Round Lake on the left and Lunch Lake on the right. There is a secluded campsite at the end of Round Lake which is one of the best sites we have ever stayed. We are not sure the rules of this but the ranger on site gave us permission. Bears are plentiful in this basin and please make sure to keep a clean campsite. During our stay, there were three bears in the slopes above round lake and they seemed pretty content to stay up there. We also saw a ton of deer including exploring our camp.

Following your stay at Lunch lake head back up to the high divide and get ready to experience breathtaking view points as you traverse the ridgeline. This section is amazing. We recommend to hike the 4 miles to Heart Lake and camp there your second night. Take your time to explore this section and if you still have the legs there is a spur trail 2 miles in length to Hoh Lake. If you take the trail just beyond Heart Lake there is a campsite that is often overlooked which is secluded and has a great sunset view into the valley.

The section from Heart Lake back to the campsite initially descends through sub-alpine woods and then through a long forested section. This is roughly 8 miles and is a constant mild descent, well maintained and makes for a pleasant exit although it certainly drags on at times. Sol Duc Park is a nice campsite about a mile or so past Heart Lake. We saw numerous mountain goats in this area although this is likely to be less common in the future as the park is planning on relocating them to the cascades.

Wildlife counter:

Bears: 10 (mostly from a distance and in the slopes above Round and Heart Lake)

Deer: 25

Mountain Goats: 3

Why Choose this Hike

This is one of the best overnight backpacking trips in the Northwest
Abundant Wildlife - Bear, Deer, Mountain Goats, and Marmots are common
Amazing Variety - Lakes, Rivers, Waterfalls, Valleys, Overviews and established campsites

Why go Somewhere Else

This is a moderate/strenuous hike and for most people will take 1-3 nights
The weather is very unpredictable, bring rain gear regardless of the forecast (trust us on this one)
If bears make you nervous be prepared to see them on this trail

Camping and Permits:

National Park Pass is required and will be checked at the entry point on Sol Duc road.
Camping permits are required between May 1st and September 30th
50% of campsites are reservable and 50% are for walkups
Permits can be reserved (typically 6 months in advance) on recreation.gov
If you are trying to get a walkup site you can do so 24 hours beforehand at the WIC center in Port Angeles
There is typically snow-pack on the trail until mid July. If done before this melts it can be dangerous especially without special equipment (ice axe, crampons, etc)
Groups of 7-12 need to stay at a group site
Fishing licenses are not required

Our experience:

We have reserved campsites both online and by walking up at the WIC center. The popular sites (especially on weekends) were reserved very quickly online (usually on the first available day).
To get the sites we desired on a Saturday we arrived at 7 am at the WIC center and we were second in line. When it opened at 8 am there was approximately 30-50 people waiting to get permits.
Our favorite campsites in order: 1. Lunch Lake 2. Heart Lake 3. Deer Lake 4. Sol Duc Park. There are multiple campsites between Sol Duc Falls and Sol Duc Park which were mostly wooded, small w/ less campers
Our recommended itinerary based upon nights spent. 1 night: Heart Lake 2 nights: Lunch Lake, then Heart Lake. 3 nights: Deer Lake, then Lunch Lake, then Sol Duc Park.
We hiked in the first week of July due to an unusually small snow-pack